Hints and tips:
...Curiosities include Afuega’l Pitu, whose chalky texture and piquant taste you either love or loathe, and the strange Casín, a tiny, rock-hard, powerfully flavoured cheese rescued from imminent extinction...
...Website; Directions— Tim Auld L’Atelier Robuchon 6 Clarges Street, London W1J 8AE A particular joy in Paris is to sit at the counter of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, watching in...
...Website; Directions L’Astrance 32 Rue de Longchamp, 75016 Paris After two years of closure due to works and lockdown, a new page in the history of L’Astrance began when it reopened at its new address...
...The cuisine could have been West African or Welsh and it would have fitted just as well....
...Website; Directions— Teong Heng Sia, CEO of real estate development company, Malaysia De L’Europe, Amsterdam A classy independent and well-located hotel with great focus on detail, as well as pleasant,...
...With his early career spent in the kitchens of L’Arpège in Paris and San Domenico in Emilia-Romagna, Café Carmellini is the theatrical culmination of exquisite French and Italian cuisine — think Dover sole...
...When you listen to him and read his book L’Art de Nourrir, he manages to inject poetry in everything he does....
...Website; Directions L’Arbre à Café 10 Rue du Nil, 75002 Paris L’Arbre à Café, a hole-in-the-wall spot that brews some of the best coffee in town, has been a favourite of mine for more than 10 years....
...Classic Amsterdam, all shined up It’s not new (the original opened 125 years ago), but it’s definitely newly reborn: the Hotel de L’Europe in Amsterdam, owned by the Heineken family, has just emerged from...
...version of l’art de recevoir....
...the famous L’Éclair de Génie by chef Christophe Adam....
...L’Avant-Comptoir de la Terre (6th arrondissement) 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 75006 Paris Good for: Eating alone Not so good for: Intimate conversation FYI: Open 7/7, noon-11pm. Small plates, €5-€15....
...It was effectively an electric Jaffle maker, but it also filled a hitherto unimagined opening in the batterie de cuisine....
...And my Vanilla Bean is a trompe-l’oeil pastry that you cut into to reveal a variety of textures....
...From £105, jeakeshouse.com BS Hôtel de l’Abbaye, Paris This Saint-Germain-des-Prés stalwart is on the larger side of homely – 43 rooms and counting – but the quiet setting makes up for it....
...In a debilitating attack of l’esprit de l’escalier, I have since realised there’s no reason on God’s green earth I couldn’t have had both....
...“Fusion is when you take concepts from existing cuisines and you mix them to create something new,” Chan specifies. “Here, we’re creating our own cuisine....
...He also serves up bistro classics at the hotel’s more informal L’Orange Verte....
...The restaurant describes itself as a “temple of Roman cuisine” — and that isn’t an exaggeration....
...It’s a simple, modern-looking L-shaped room, so everyone is close to the performance — lower tables near the front, high stools and tables at the back....
...But apart from the opening of two Parisian outposts, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Fouquet’s (part of the Hôtel Barrière Le Carl Gustaf, above Gustavia), the laidback mood of before persists....
...At the same time, I recognise that Indian cuisine needs to evolve and stay relevant. Sharma has struck a balance....
...DBR’s other Bordeaux estate L’Evangile (often dubbed the “insider’s Pomerol”) is already certified....
...“I was four years old when we came from Villa Medici” – the palace where Harumi’s father directed the Académie de France à Rome. “My parents just came to have tea and then they discovered the house....
...For the VSOE’s most popular itinerary, I boarded in the late afternoon, from track six at Gare de l’Est....
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