Hints and tips:
...The siblings’ mother and father keep the business afloat by inviting in guests, often day trippers wanting to see a working ranch or to ride out on a well-trodden trail in the hope of seeing condors....
...Phantom Ranch, Grand Canyon NP, Arizona This lodge sits beside the Colorado River at the bottom of the canyon — 5,800 feet below the north rim — and can only be reached by mule, raft or on foot....
...An inveterate outdoorsman, he had managed to secure a reservation to spend two nights, including New Year’s Eve, in Phantom Ranch, at the bottom of the canyon....
...The following morning I head out at sunrise alone, for a 10-mile run round the ranch. I jog past a group of mustang, which raise their heads and look at me inquisitively....
...with a brutally unambiguous name, Death Canyon....
...Details The Post Ranch Inn (www.postranchinn.com) has 41 rooms and suites, many with open fires or outdoor hot tubs; doubles start at $595. Deetjen’s (www.deetjens.com) has cabins from $95 a night....
...And Rich takes us not just out to the rim and down a trail but somewhere few ever go: inside the home of the Kolb brothers, two small men from Pennsylvania who made it big in the Grand Canyon at the beginning...
International Edition