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...On our tour, we strolled past the golden dome of the Sultan Mosque during Ramadan night prayers; sniffed the mouthwatering smell of fresh murtabak (dough stuffed with meat and eggs) wafting out of Zam Zam...
...Small, bright cafés offer lemon tea, steaming beef and pork momos, the national dish of ema datshi (chillies or mushrooms in a cheese sauce), ferns with hand-rolled noodles — but also croissants, pasta and...
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