Hints and tips:
...I also give out copies of John Berger’s Ways of Seeing like the Bible. There’s a brilliant chapter about being naked and the nude....
...Stefano Pilati, head of design, Ermenegildo Zegna After failure to renew his Yves Saint Laurent contract made way for enfant terrible Hedi Slimane, the highly capable Mr Pilati arrived at Zegna in January...
...Unlike, say, the most recent departure of Stefano Pilati from Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano at Dior or even Raf Simons at Jil Sander, Mr Lam hasn’t been trotted out as the face or vision behind the...
...He does, however, have the love of architecture and volume that originally marked Dior, and that got a little lost in John Galliano’s historical fantasies....
...OK, John Galliano made her actual wedding dress, which was pretty, being bias cut and gold beaded, but also pretty unsurprising (inspired by the beautiful and damned Zelda Fitzgerald, who was also the theme...
...By contrast, at Yves Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati offered gentlemanly deconstructed shoulders, low waists and frock coats....
...After all, John Galliano’s roguish Russian émigré collection was inspired by Rudolf Nureyev, a man pretty much synonymous with magic in motion....
...Riccardo Tisci put Victorian clergymen in skirts and created white shirts that resembled a cross between an altar boy’s smock and an English lady’s lace picnic dress, to Yves Saint Laurent, where Stefano Pilati...
...Van Noten showed long johns, nipped at the ankle and worn with everything from cricket blazers and broad stripe raincoats to boiled wool safari jackets....
...It was all so lazy-Saturday, in fact, that the occasional burst of over-the-top extravagance came as an engaging distraction – to wit, John Galliano’s “Maharaja” show, which was held in a go-kart arena in...
...John Galliano dragged everyone out to an empty warehouse on the outskirts of the city long past dinner time to see very pretty floral chiffon and jersey flapper dresses....
...Baseball caps aside, male headgear has been on the wane since John F Kennedy declined to wear one for his 1962 presidential inauguration....
...Since Ms Hermann’s appointment less than three years ago, the label’s creative director Stefano Pilati has prised open the dark store spaces created by his predecessor, Tom Ford....
...“We wanted the luxury of actually feeling the clothes, and then enjoying them over dinner,” said Pilati....
...Yet there Mr Pilati is, continually paddling round a relevant identity without quite reaching it....
...Christian Dior’s John Galliano has frequently referred to the decadent, decorative flourishes Poiret favoured – in his fur-trimmed, embroidered eveningwear, for example....
...A case in point, Yves Saint Laurent, where designer Stefano Pilati said he was exploring ways to free “women from pointless fashion confines” – a marked contrast to his last collections, which often seemed...
...Generally, it is extremists who get things done, whether they are wearing Manolo Blahniks or made to measure John Lobbs....
...Stefano Pilati, the designer, clearly understands the ingredients of the YSL oeuvre, from volume to smokings to Gypsies and Russian folklore....
...At Gucci, John Ray’s third collection for the house also told a story....
...Unlike the other LVMH designers however, such as Marc Jacobs and Dior’s John Galliano, Lagerfeld often seems to act as though he is independent of management decisions....
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