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...The show includes Claire McCardell’s 1949 “monastic” dress: shapeless until tied at the waist, it was typical of her pioneering mass-produced designs....
...The period Robert Burke calls the “Ralph/Calvin/Donna years” was, indeed, the last time US fashion presented a coherent face to the world....
...Though once upon a Claire McCardell/Anne Klein time American fashion stood for one thing specifically (sportswear, which is to say luxe and easy separates), in recent years it has seemed a bit of a mess:...
...There are no classic New York designers such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein or Donna Karan; nor even famous historical names such as Claire McCardell and Bonnie Cashin, the godmothers of that American concept...
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